ON TRAVEL Archive

Rule of Three

According to Wikipedia, “The rule of three is a principle in English writing that suggests that things that come in threes are inherently funnier, more satisfying, or more effective than other numbers of things.” I recently took a trip to Paris and had a pair of three’s in my sights…

The three restaurants of Constantin Constant: Cafe Constant, Les Cocotte, and Le Violon d’Ingres.

Three of the finest bars run by the same gang: Experimental Cocktail Club, Prescription, and Curio Parlour.

I’ll say this, there was nothing funny about these establishments dedicated to the finest culinary and cocktail experiences. The service across all of them was excellent and in some ways, it was a really enlightening experience. I realised that meals in Paris don’t have to be expensive if you want good food. I realised the service, even to an American on his own without a word of French, can still be first-class. I discovered the vieux carre (more on that in a minute).

The three restaurants of Constantin Constant all reside adjacent to one another along Rue Saint-Dominique in the 7th. Cafe Constant is, as the name implies, significantly less formal. Four of us came for lunch with no reservation and walked away under €20 a head on the prix fixe. That is shockingly good value for Paris. Have a gander at some of the food:

The next night it was off to Les Cocottes. I imagine you might need to make a reservation here, as it was quite busy when I entered. However, I was on my own and you can actually eat at the bar, so I had no trouble getting a seat. Have I mentioned I hate eating alone? I always have to sit there and fiddle with my phone (probably tweeting about the meal) or checking my e-mail, etc…but sitting at the bar, there is no one across from me and I don’t feel uncomfortable in the slightest. I actually enjoyed being alone. Anyways, the food is very reasonably priced and certainly high quality. I think I managed to get away with €40 for starter, main, and dessert with a glass of wine. I started off with a langoustine dish, moved on to the special of the day – a chicken cocotte, and then had the chef’s special divinely chocolatey dessert. For those that don’t know, a cocotte is a dish served in a small fireproof pot. See it in the pictures below:

Lastly, on the high-end, we have Le Violon d’Ingres. I’m a terrible food blogger and didn’t make a note of what I had, so you’ll just have to trust me in saying that it was very nice, but the food was not of such significantly higher quality as to justify the price. Its more about the atmosphere which is much more intimate. I’d suggest going here for a romantic dinner; Les Cocottes is the better choice for entertaining.

On the drinks side, each of the three cocktail clubs I sampled had a completely different atmosphere.

First up was Experiemental Cocktail Club. This was the most mature of the three bars with a staff that ran the place like clockwork. They knew everything about drinks, and could match your tastes, but for a place called Experimental Cocktail Club, I didn’t find them all that experimental. That is not a bad thing. The drinks were innovative and perfected. They knew what works, there was no experiment. The vibe was pretty casual, but this was certainly the place for an intimate evening of fine drinking. My drinks: Tommy’s Margarita and a Ditzy Kitty.

After a couple drinks here, I trotted on down to Prescription. Best vibe of the night — the place was absolutely buzzing. Cool people, dressed cool, all enjoying cool cocktails. I found it so much easier to approach people and strike up conversations…even with the bartnenders who certainly had their hands full. Prescription also introduced me to the vieux carre. Oh, the vieux carre, a beautiful blend of Rittenhouse Rye, Grosperrin VSOP cognac, sweet vermouth, Angostura bitters, Benedictine, and a citrus zest. It was approaching 1am and it was time for me to move on…though I could have spent the entire night drinking vieux carres.

Curio Parlor was my next and final stop of the evening and I promptly found a seat at the bar where I camped out for the evening. It was time to slow things down a bit, move on to some classics, and really soak up my last evening in Paris. It was time for a Manhattan. I think people were sufficiently libated here because I didn’t need to initiate any of the conversations. A steady stream of people seemed to keep coming up to chat — maybe I just looked cool with the Manhattan. Of course, Curio Parlor was open till 4am so my 2 drink limit that I had held so tightly to seemed a bit meaningless, as this was my last stop of the night. I think I probably had 3 or 4 drinks at Curio and they were all delicious. I stuck mostly to classics (ok, manhattans), but I think a threw a surprise in from the menu, just to say I had.

All in all, I was very impressed with all of these spots and I would whole-heartedly recommend them to anyone…

Inherently funny? Hardly, thought I did meet some intersting people along the way.

More satisfying? Drinking at three bars is always more satisfying than one. Tasty food too.

More effective? I definitely feel like I experienced some of Paris’ finest by cramming these places into three days in Paris.

Door 74

One last drink.

I recently discovered that these three words bear almost no meaning in the city of Amsterdam. Over the Easter weekend, I decided last minute to take a trip to visit the Dutch and see what kind of trouble I could get into. Four of us flocked to this city of debauchery with no agenda and no plans; our only obligations lie in making the most of the city. In the very centre of the city, I only had one recommendation, the speakeasy bar Door 74.

It was Saturday night and I would normally try and book for any classy cocktail bar, but here it would appear that is the onlyway of getting in at all if you’re not lucky. We didn’t really know what to expect except some really nice cocktails. A reservation was for 10pm and from the moment we walk in, we’re treated like VIPs at the most exclusive night spot in town. A kind gentleman takes our coats. A beautiful girl shows us to our table where a nice selection of nuts and olives awaits. Would we like a glass of champagne to start? Why yes, we most certainly would.

A Dry Vodka Martini

The drinks menu is extensive with plenty of interesting and unique creations. No fruit drinks here; if there’s fruit, it’s because they’re using their own homemade fruit syrups. The red vermouth is homemade too. Rare bitters find their way into rare and often infused spirits. Every drink is a tribute to the art of bartending.

Sure, they can do the classics, and whilst my friends were working their way through the cocktail menu, I was putting the bar through its paces. I started off with my personal bartending benchmark, a dry vodka martini with a twist. Surprisingly, the waitress asked if i wanted it shaken or stirred. This seems like a haven for purists, so I didn’t feel out of place saying “Stirred, never shaken.” I think it’s generally regarded that shaking a martini only serves to dilute the drink. Anyways, this drink goes down smooth, crisp, clean, and with just the slightest sweetness to it. Served in a chilled glass, it is truly a thing of beauty and rates among the best I’ve ever had. Ok, so they passed that test, but even I can make an (admittedly, average) martini.

“Could I have a Perfect Manhattan?”

“Absolutely.”

The Perfect Manhattan

Meanwhile, we ordered another round of house cocktails for the table and so far my favourite is “The Viking” – Akavit, Barbancourt rhum, Lillet blanc, orange  bitters. Just then, one of the bartenders approaches me and says “Are you the one who ordered the Perfect Manhattan?” Somewhat guiltily, I acknowledged I was the trying to gauge just how good their cocktails were. “You seem to know your drinks. Let’s find you that Perfect Manhattan.” Now it was a journey we were taking together. I try one whiskey that I am warned is quite strong. As delicious as it is, its probably going to overpower the vermouth. He knew it too and without hesitation he brings over a 100-proof whiskey which he thinks will suit it perfectly. This was only the second taste, but I knew this would be the one. A few minutes later, my Manhattan arrives and he’s standing there waiting for me to taste it, slightly nervous that it might not be what I was looking for, but showing the kind of excitement you get before someone opens a gift you have really put a lot of thought into. One sip and it’s perfect. Actually the best Perfect Manhattan I’ve ever had…twice.

So we worked our way through and I think I might have gone for a Sazerak, but it didn’t even matter. I was only trying other drinks because I would have felt bad about having the same Manhattans all night. It was nearing 3am and I asked what time the bar closes and with a spirited laugh (no pun intended) the waitress says, “We close when the bartenders feel like leaving…and they really hate leaving.” But it was getting late and we’d drank plenty, so we decided it was time to call it a night.

We walked back to our substandard accommodation and I had to drop off my roommates and take the single key so I could walk my friend back to where she was staying and still be able to get back into our hotel. The moment we walked out she looks at me and goes, “You know, I bet it would have been fun to stay there longer…” I didn’t need much persuading and we quickly jumped in a taxi. We thought we would just stop by for one last drink.

My foray into bartending.

We arrived back at the bar around 4 and were told it had shut some time earlier. After some persuading, we managed to get in and realised they were just getting started. There were still a good 15 or so people and they were cleaning up so we were told we could have any simple drinks. Like shots. Easy to pour, easy to serve, and too easy to drink. At one point they even put me behind the bar, a sign of respect that I don’t take for granted. They guided me around their vast selection of spirits to pour out shots for everyone and apparently, I was only the 4th person to person to work the bar who didn’t actually work for the bar. Rum and cokes were the bartender’s choice and their house rum is El Dorado from Guyana, which has a slight vanilla taste to it. We ended up talking for hours with the staff and other patrons lucky enough to be invited to stay late. A late night became an early morning and most of the guests slowly started to file out by 6. Everything, most of all our sobriety, was coming to an end. There were 5 of us left now, but we can’t leave without one last drink.

Out comes the champagne and a shot of whiskey each. A couple glasses down and some more meaningful chat and it’s now 7:30. We’ve lasted as long as the bartenders wanted to and they decided its time to finally call it a night. Have we really been here for the better part of 8 hours? Handshakes and hugs all around, it’s been an adventure and this is what Amsterdam is all about.

After that night, all I wanted to do was go back…which we did, the very next night. It was another night of decadence that ended with us stepping out into the light of day. Even now all I can think about is the next time I can get back for another round with some of Amsterdam’s finest bartenders. One last drink? I hope that’s never the case at Door 74.

Door 74Door74
Reguliersdwarsstraat 74
1017BN Amsterdam, Netherlands
Reservations can be made by calling or texting +31 63 404 5122.

PS HUGE thanks to 52 Martinis for the fantastic recommendation.